ENCHENDO O CALLEIRO OU, PANTULLO DO PORCO, por Ramon Lainho

FILLING THE PORK´S STOMACH

O calleiro ou pantullo, por este territorio, vén sendo o estómagho do porco e, por extensión, dos animais.

 

 

The calleiro or pantullo, in this territory, is the stomach of the pig (alive) or pork (after the sacrifice) and, by extension, of the animals.

Aparte do calleiro ou pantullo, como “continente” ou depósito para encher=rechear, empreghaban indistintamente e, inda empreghan: anacos de tripa ghorda (xa que toda é moi lonca), o reipéres (tripa desde a parte baixa do estómagho, ata o iniçio da tripa ghorda)  e, cachos de tripa delghada (toda xunta é moi lonca). Se nese intre, fanno cunha das vísçeras do animal, entón reservan as outras para diferentes ocasións. Non se fan as catro á ves.

 

In addition to the stomach, as a continent or reservoir of filling, people used and still use indistinctly, pieces of large instestine (because everything is very long). Also, the "reiperes" (gut that begins in the lower part of the stomach, until the beginning of the large instestine). And, small instestine pieces (all is very long). If at that time, they do it with one of these entrails of the pork, then reserve the others for different occasions. They do not make all four at once. 

  
As denominaçións destas recetas, son: “encher o calleiro” = “encher o pantullo”, “encher a tripa ghorda”, “encher o reiperes”, “encher a tripa delghada”.

Aghulla e fío para coser e atar o calleiro ou pantullo. E tesoiras para cortar o fío.

Needle and thread for sewing and knotting the stomach. And scissors to cut the thread.

The denominations of these recipes are: "fill the calleiro" = "fill the pantullo" (fill the stomach), "fill the large intestine", "fill the reiperes, "fill the small intestine."

Entre nós, ao lonco de boa parte da vida de nosos país, avós, …, había moita neçesidade.

  

Among us, throughout a good part of the life of our parents, grandparents ... there was a great need.  

 

Durante o ano, cando façían o caldo, xeralmente era “lavado”: unhas poucas patacas, nentellas e alghunhas verduras (rabiças e/ou repolo), quiçais se había, botábanlle un cacho de touçiño. E, sen carne nincunha (nas festas, sí que façían un caldo completo con coçido, de carne de ghalo ou ghaliña e, máis a carne comprada dun pucho do monte). Pois ben, se cadra no caldo, podían botarlle adentro, un anaco de tripa ghorda, ou o reiperes, ou un cacho de tripa delghada, recheas soamente con fariña de millo. Noutras ocasións, podían coçelas en calquera comida líquida, ou, simplemente, nunha tarteira de aghua. Logho sacábana da ola ou da tarteira para cortala en rebandas e, comela. A realidade daqueles mundos, “non daba para máis” = “non dou máis de sí”.  

During the year, when the Galician soup was made, it was generally a soup called "washed". This meant that he had few potatoes, some beans, turnip greens and/or cabbage. Maybe, if there was a piece of bacon, they would throw it into the pot. But, without any meat (at festivities, some people made a full soup with rooster meat or hen, and meat purchased from a calf of the mountain). Well, in any case, they could put in the soup a piece of large intestine, or the "reiperes" or, a piece of thin intestine, filled only with cornmeal. At other times, they could be cooked in any liquid food or, simply, in a pan of water. Then, they took it out of the pot or pan, to cut it into slices and eat it. “The reality of those worlds, did not gave for more" = “That reality did not give more of itself.”

En ves da posibilidade anterior, podían botarlle uns “bolos do pote”, a coçer na ola do caldo. Cando non se façía o caldo, se apetecían, púñase ao lume unha tarteira de aghua cun anaco de touçiño para que colleran substançia. Estes, façíanse con fariña de millo, amasada con aghua e sal (de coçelos no caldo, non levaban sal), e tiñan a forma dun puño pequeno. De seghuido, córtase un rebanda pequeniña e fina de touçiño, para meterlla dentro do bolo. É diçir, por aquí, o costume era que cada bolo do pote, levara un cachiño pequeno de touçiño. Logho, botábanse adentro, os bolos do pote.

 

Instead of the previous possibility, they could cook the "bolos do pote" (approximately, buns of “old” pot), in the Galician soup. When was not made this soup, then the buns were cooked in a pot of water over the fire, with a piece of bacon inside the container, to acquire substance. These were prepared with corn flour, kneaded with water and salt (to cook them in the soup, they did not carry salt). Then, they were kneaded to give them a shape of small fist. Besides, a thin slice of bacon was cut to put it inside the bun. That is, the custom here was that each (bun of "old" pot) would carry a bit of bacon. Then, they were cooked in the pot.

Incluso, os “bolicos” non se façían como se fan hoxe. Chamábanlles “maçapáns”, porque non levaban ovos, nin fariña de trigo. Só se façían con fariña de millo, aghua e sal. Remexíase todo, e cunha culler íbase botando a masa na tixola para fritiren. Tampouco se lle botaba sucre (tempos de neçesidade), por riba deles na bandexa ou fonte. Os ovos eran escasos e vendíanse. O trigho non se sementaba nese tempo. Soamente o millo para a xente e os animais. A vida era moi dura e os frutos eran escasos. Todo vendíase para ghanar a vida.   

Even, the "flat fritters" did not have what they have today. They were called "maçapáns ou masapáns" = marzipan. They were made only with corn flour, water and salt, without  eggs or wheat flour. Everything was stirred and, with a spoon, the dough was poured into the pan to fry them. People did not throw sugar over them on the tray (times of need). Eggs were scarce and sold. The wheat at that time, was not sown here. Only corn for people and animals. Life was very hard and provisions were scarce. Everything was sold to earn a living.

Existían os “palmasos”, máis ghordos cós bolicos. Levaban fariña de millo, aghua, sal e alghúns cachiños de touçiño, pero non levaban ovos. Remexíase todo e cunha culler ou caço, botábase a masa na tixola para fritir. Non levaban sucre, porque non cheghaban os cartos para compralo.

There were so-called "palmasos", thicker than "bolicos" (flat fritters). They were  made of cornmeal, water, salt and a few pieces of bacon, but without eggs. Everything was stirred and with a spoon or a ladle, the dough was poured into the frying pan to fry them. No sugar was put at them, because people "in general", did not have enough money to buy it.

Espíchase, espétase ou pínchase cunha aghulla, cun imperdible=prendedor ou calquera obxecto que teña punta. Esto, fai que toda clase de vísçera rechea metida ao forno, vaia soltando aire e, incluso líquido sobrante. Deste xeito, reduçirá a posibilidade de que estoupe ou explote ao inchar, anque pode estoupar ighualmente. 

Before putting any stuffed viscera in the oven, it is punctured with a needle, a pin or other pointed object. This causes it to release air and excess liquid. Thus, when inflating, the possibility of exploding will be reduced, although it can still explode.

Por este motivo, nos días de festa esforçábanse por botarlle alghúns inghredientes a esta reçeta das vísçeras. Era o que había. Neses días “espeçiais”, comprábanse uvas pasas. Leite tíñano xa na casa (tiñan vacas). Francullas ou mighallas de pan reseso. Compraban sucre. Os ovos da casa, como outros froitos, xeralmente véndíanse para “axudar a ghanar a vida”. Sen embargho, para a preparación da tripa nos de días de festa, reservábanse alghúns ovos.

For this reason, during the festivities, people tried to add some more ingredients to this recipe of the viscera. It was what there was. On those "special" days, they bought raisins. They had milk at home (if there were cows at home). Bread crumbs from a few days ago. They bought sugar. The eggs of the house, like other fruits, were generally sold to "help make a living". However, for the preparation of the gut on the festivities, some eggs were always reserved. 

Co paso dos anos, empeçou a haberen algho de medios. Desde este momento, começouse a façer “a masa”. Esta masa substitúe á fariña de millo coa que enchían ou recheaban estas vísçeras. Con esto, xurdiron dúas posibilidades:

- encher aquelas con esta masa para coçer ao forno.

- coçer a masa soa no forno.

Over the years, there began to be some means. From this moment on, the "dough" began to be made. This, replaced the corn flour with which the aforementioned viscera were filled. In this way, two possibilities emerged:

- baking those filled visceras with this dough.

- bake the dough only.

Ao final, rompeu o calleiro=pantullo e, a masa espallouse=esparexeuse pola bandexa=fonte. 

In the end, the stomach broke and, the dough spread throughout the plate tray for baking.

Hoxe, “a masa” do enchido ou recheo, leva varias cousas: cachiños de pan reseso ou senón, fresco. Leite, algho de aghua para non ghastar leite ás “encrendas” = “a eito” (a discreçión, despilfarrar inneçesariamente). Ovos, uvas pasas, incluso podería levar piñóns (van moi caros), sucre e comiños.

Today, the "dough" has several things: pieces of bread of several days or, if not fresh. Milk, some water so you do not spend too much milk. Eggs, raisins, could even carry pine nuts (they are very expensive), sugar and cumin.

Hai poucos anos que na casa, a esta reçeta, façíaselle un rustrido de cebola:

- cortaban uns anaquiños de touçiño, que podía cadrar con pelexo ou, non.

- picaban un pouco de cebola.

- collían unha tixola e envorcábanlle os cachiños de touçiño. Logho, púñase ao lume. Ao ir quentando, vanse remexendo. Ao pouco tempo, o touçiño vai arriando ghraxa. Cando quedaban só os pelexos dourados ou fritidos, sacábanse e ghardábanse para un ghuiso etç.

- Na ghraxa da tixola, botaban a cebola. En querendo, podían enghadirlle un pouquiño de pemento doce. E, cando xa estaba dourada, envorcaban todo (cebola e ghraxa) na “masa” da tarteira. Por último, remexían toda a masa para mesturala ben.

A few years ago in the house, a “frying sauce” only with onion, it was added to this recipe:

- cut a few pieces of bacon, with skin or, without it.

- chop a bit of onion.

- They grabbed a frying pan and put the pieces of bacon on it. Then, they lit the fire or, turned on the kitchen. As it warms up, the bacon goes stirring. Soon, the fat is released, and the pieces of browned or fried skin, are removed and kept for a stew, etc.

- In the fat of the frying pan, they put the onion. If they wanted, they could pour a little bit of sweet paprika. And, when it was already browned, they poured everything (onion and fat) into the "dough" of the pan. Finally, they stirred the whole dough to mix well.

Na actualidade, todas esta vísçeras recheas, fanse ao forno nunha bandexa ou fonte en calquera época do ano. Sempre e cando, haxa reserva delas. Incluso, a “masa” soa sen vísçeras, cóçese ao forno na bandexa ou fonte.

Currently, all these stuffed viscera are baked at any time of the year, on a flat tray for baking. Of course, as long as there is a reservation of them. Even the "dough" alone without viscera, is poured into a flat tray for baking and baked in the oven.

CURIOSIDADE: Esta “masa” de hoxe en día (antes só levaba fariña de millo), é semellante ao queique. Cando façemos “a masa” soa, na bandexa ou fonte para coçer ao forno, sae coa forma deste reçipiente, é diçír, chan e achatada.

Se o molde fose fondo e alto, posiblemente pudéramos chamarlle un “queique”. A todo esto, a verba queique pudera vir da palabra inclesa “cake”. Quiçais traída polos mariñeiros ou polos emigrantes ou, tal ves polo mundo do comerçio.

Diçir que, meu pai nos anos sesenta, cando ten pasado polo pobo de Ordes (antigha estrada de Santiagho á Coruña) en moto camiño a Ferrol (para contactar co xerente dunha xestoría que o ía embarcar nun barco mercante), por veces ten visto no escaparate dalghunha tenda ese doce, co nome: “queique”.
Para quen non o saiba, naqueles anos case ninquén tiña unha biçicleta, porque non había cartos para comprala. Case todo o mundo ía a pé. Soamente cando foi naveghar, xuntou cartos para comprar por exemplo, esta moto. 

CURIOSITY: This "dough" of today (previously only had corn flour, without anything else), is similar to "queique". When we make the "dough" on the baking tray, it comes out with the shape of this container, that is flat and low.

 

If the mold was deep and high, we could possibly call it a "queique". To all this, the word queique may be derived from the English term "cake". Perhaps brought by sailors or by emigrants or, perhaps by the world of commerce.

It is worth mentioning that my father, in the sixties when he was passing through the town of Ordes (old road from Santiagho to A Coruña) on his motorcycle, towards O Ferrol (to contact the manager of an agency, which was going to embark him on an merchant ship), it was already exposed in some shop window, that “cake” with the name "queique".  
For those who do not know, in those years almost nobody had a bicycle, because there was no money to buy it. Almost everyone moved on foot. Only when he embarked, he raised enough money to buy, for example, this motorcycle.